Dubai Luxury Travel Guide

Only got a few arabian nights in this slick, mega-rich desert oasis? Want no faff, no crap, just the best of the best? Well, like succulent dates, luxe entries are all hand-picked from the lovely palm, and the activities and shopping itineraries are mostly half­day so you can mix and match as you please. How cool is that? So, c'mon aladdin, rub that magic lamp ...

In only fifty years this little pearl-fishing village on the arabian gulf has transformed itself into a major r8:r stop of sun. Sand, shopping and spa. If you take the gulf as north and the creek as your centre, then dei ra, the original old quarter is east, downtown bur dubai is to the west, and continuing west along the coast are ritzy jumeirah and west marina.

Have your concierge/hotel/driver's number with you at all times English is widely spoken, and the people friendly » weather: the perfect time to visit is nov-apr, take a pash for the cooler evenings; avoid july­mid-sept when temps can soar to the high 40s. Don't use sunscreen, use sunblock
Check ahead to avoid visiting during ramadan month when the city fasts from sunrise to sunset, or the prophet's birthday when bars are shut
Alcohol is served only in restos/bars attached to Hotels. And the prices charged are often criminal :> tipping is not obligatory, but appreciated

Dubai's weekend is fri-sat. Many small shops don't open until 4pm on fridays, but some of the big malls open from 1 dam. Dubai is remarkably liberal both in dress and behaviour. But egregious displays of anger or saucy behaviour are frowned upon, and there is a zero tolerance of drink-driving = jail
Dubai is very safe, there is virtually no crime :> taxis are cheap, drivers speak english and know most hotels and shopping centres
The driving and traffic in this town is truly insane :> events to watch for: dubai world cup (mar) - gee­gees (sans gambling); dubai desert classic - golf (feb/mar); dubai tennis championships (marlapr); gulf art fair - international contempo art 

Currency: uae dirham. Aed 3.67 = us$l fixed :> country code is +971 and 4 for dubai, local mobiles start with 050 or 055 and landlines 04 :> directory enquiries police and ambulance 999, fire 997
Marhaba : well, hello shukran : thanks, awfully
Shway, shway! : driver, kindly slow down!

The residence and spa
One&only royal mirage / jumeirah beach.
The royal mirage houses three distinct hotels set in lush grounds overlooking the arabian gulf, the loveli­est of which, the residence, has just fifty contempor­arabic rooms and suites. Delish pool, library/lounge and dining-room, divine givenchy spa and oriental hammam baths, proximity to hip rooftop bar, plus smart eats nina and eauzone, make it a complete joy.

Grosvenor house
West marina
This urban-glam modernista sits in the west marina area, but don't let that put you off. Personal butlers, retreat spa, a branch of 1847 and nbar, buddha bar, bar 44 plus three top tables; indego, mezzanine and ottomans. The pool is so-so, but guests can also use the beachside facilities of the adjacent le royal meridien. Airy waterfront temple of nouvelle arabian with large creek view rooms and <pod' baths. Away from the town's bustle, but well located for the dubai creek golf and yacht club, add thai kitchen, euro traiteur, swank terrace bar plus amara spa and you're silting pretty.

The ritz-carlton, dubai
Jumeirah beach ro /399 4000/ ritzcarlton.com
Maximallst, olde world charm awaits at this <palace' on the beach. Palmy courtyards, water features and babylonian gardens make it a sublime oasis amid the construction this end of town. Take high tea on the lawns, or feast at italian splendido or french la bale.

La maison d'hotes
Tranquil, tucked away french-oriental guest house perfectly placed for sassy shoppers. Restrained, comfy themed rooms - the lahore is our style-far-dollar pick. Two pools and romantic bistro with summer terrace, but alas, no booze licence means no wine when you dine.
Quaint little courtyard kitten curled up in the old bastakiya wind-tower district, with just a handful of sweet and simple rooms for let (think fourposters, a/c and wafty cotton drapes), plus gallery and cafe.

Grosvenor house. Slick metro abodes with access to all the bells and whistles of the attached hotel.

Alrighty, just about every dining option in dubai is in a hotel or mall, so no carping ... And remember, no alcohol unless it's a restaurant in a hotel, or a hotel mall. ..

Verre. This surprisingly understated glassed-in box of black chairs and white linens belies the taste factor awaiting you from three-star michelin brit gordon ramsay. Little wonder local chefs dine here.

Seafood pierchic. Lurvers fairytale set over the arabian gulf with the most spectacular seaview posi in town, and accessed by an indulgently romantic candle-lit pier. The food is good and the service flawless. The deck Is the only place to be, so book well ahead, fred.
Al qasr / madinat jumeirah / jumeirah / 3666730

Al mahara. Dubai's most ostentatious restaurant tee­ters dangerously close to being embarrassing when you arrive by 'submarine'. Located in a subterranean aquarium in that iconic temple to vulgarity, the burj al arab, the prices are high, but if you want to push the boat out it's quite an event. Dress code applies.

Mod brit mezzanine. Pure polished whites, gorgeous velvet armchairs, candelabras, chandeliers, and gently pulsing ambient lighting. The ultra see and be scene fishbowl 'private' dining room is a poseurs paradise. Grosvenor house / west marina beach

Al hadheerah. Forty minutes outside of dubai is this extraordinary, themed, open-air desert diner set in a huge uncovered market, complete with belly dancers. Pre-book one of the booths or a tent, or better yet why not stay overnight at the luxey bab al shams. Bab al shams desert resort
Al nafoorah. Mean lebanese fare nestled among the label stables of emirates towers. Masculine contours . And killer kebbeh make it a fave among chefs and local foodies. Go alfresco (if it's cool) then go shopping! Jumeirah emirates towers blvd

Moroccan/arabic shoo fee ma fee. Dine upstairs at this faux rustic repository of carved, dark wood furny and polished floorboards. Or, better yet, snag a terrace lounge table, suck on your shisha and chill above the 'canals' of the madinat. The agency (see bars) is next door.
Al qasr / madinat jumeirah

Turkish-ish orromans. Lush n' plush designy-den with eclectic menu and great outdoor majlls (lounge) for shisha smoking. Grosvenor house / west marina beach

Mod indian indego. Chic~ creamy marble fit-out with ox-blood banquettes and lounge sounds for michelin-mounted~ but mild masalas from consultant chef vineet bhatia. Grosvenor house /west marina beach 

Nina. Aromatic and piquant flavour fest, where the rich colours extend from the plates to the interior. Candlelights~ beaded curtains and smooth tunes means high romance is in the air and argy-bhajhi~s on the menu. Arabian court royal mirage/ jumeirah 
Mediterranean majlls al bahar. Under-the-heavens beach babe on the foreshore facing the burj al arab, for grills and bite-sized nosh~ or cocktails at the maritime-slick bar. Perfecto for romantic, burj back-dropped sunsets. Beachside, burj al arab / jumeirah from 7pm for non-guests / smart dress / bookings essential.

Frenchiltalian vu's. Ask for a window seat and take advantage of the sky-high views at this smart, striped-banquette scorcher with white linens and silver service.

French cafe chic. Two-star michelin chef michel rostang presides over the excellent 'light' gourmet menu here, with its outrageous signature chocolate souffle.

Le meridien dubai lunch and dinner daily / closed fri lunch

International bateaux dubai. Put aside all pre-conceived dinner cruise thoughts and climb aboard this very stylish, wraparound, glass-walled creek cruiser for swish dishes, tinkly piano and romantic evening views. Dubai creek / near the british embassy.

Haute vegetarian magnolia. Va-veggie-voom with itty bitty delectables in a splendid canal setting that would have the hippy brigade weeping onto their tofu sandals. Adjacent to talise (see spa), so perfect for bussed out spa bunnies. Al qasr / madinat jumeirah 

Eurasian eauzone. Slink across the pool to this fun hip-hang with varied menu, casual bar and exterior seaview terrace, or glam poolside stripey marquee deck; arabian court / royal mirage / jumeirah lunch & dinner daily

Seafood/singaporean peppercrab. Pull up a chair on the polished crazy­pave for the star of this show. Locals just can't get enough of the signature singapore-style pepper crab smothered in its knockout, piquant sauce. Dig in. Grand hyatt/garhoud/ dinner only/closed sun

Chinese zeng he's. Raise the red lantern in this classic-with­a-twist rosewood and fautique interior, then leg it upstairs for alfresco drinks at bahri bar (see bars). Mina a' salam / madinat jumeirah / jumeirah / lunch & dinner daily